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Re: BMW 728, 1997. Any issues?

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <7jc0r5F35a3v6U1@mid.individual.net>,
>    thomas <toooommygin@retardedloony.com> wrote:
>> Be very wary of M60 730i and 3,982cc 740i V8s (the engines that were
>> dropped in 1996). Some unsold 'P' platers still had the old engines.
>> 728i may also suffer bore liner degradation.
>
> Nikasil problems were caused by high sulphur fuel which hasn't been around
> for many a year. Unless it's a barn find any Nikasil engines still around
> should be fine as it means they were never run on this 'cheap' petrol.

I found a good bet was to let the engine idle with the door wide open.
If the end of the door seems to jump up and down then the idle is rough
enough to consider the car as a walk away.

Also even if the engine is trouble free, it's a good bargaining point to
get the price down.

>
>> Check all electrics, computer (see 5-Series) and aircon system carefully.
>
>> Check for duff cats, condensation corroded rear silencers from
>> chauffeured cars. Chauffeured cars also most likely to suffer premature
>> bore wear due to long periods spent idling. Solved by replacement block
>> with steel-lined bores. UK imports from March 1998 fitted with steel-
>> or Alusil-lined bores, but grey imports from other markets may not be.
>
> Apart from the petrol issue Nikasil gives longer bore life than steel.
>
>> Automatic transmission specialists don't like the 5-speed autobox.
>
> They don't seem to be a source of problems. Check out Ebay prices -
> they're not in demand.

I'd agree. the 5 speed boxes are not ones that the auto specialists seem
to slate, most of them reckon with changes of fluid and the filter on
the pan every 24k they will go for a long time. An electric drill
operated pump makes chaning the ATF a doddle, but you only get about a
third out each go.

>
>> 1998: new 7s built before Nov '94 recalled to fit new radiator cap (very
>> few cars involved, because new 7 not launched until August 1994).
>
>> Failure of seals of rear tail lights lets water in which causes the
>> contact between bulb holder and bulb to erode and contact to be lost.
>> BMW replacements from a dealer are £280 a side, fitted. 1998-2000 rated
>> average for problems and faults, poor for breakdowns in 2003 Which
>> survey.
>
>> General Warning about Automatic Transmissions: Many BMWs have "sealed
>> for life" automatic transmissions (this applies to all of the E38
>> series with the exception of the 730i and many 5 series and also
>> current cars). Regardless of whether you have a full BMW service
>> history, the dealer will never change the auto fluid. Many of these
>> boxes are failing around the 120-150k mark - often well outside of
>> warranty and to a cost of £3.5k plus VAT. A good independent or
>> automatic transmission specialist can and will change the fluid for you
>> (and any good BMW independents will recommend this anyway),
>
>  Mine - AMC of Tooting don't. And they're one of the best independents
> around.  My view is the jury's out on this. I've not seem details of an
> ATF analysis at high mileage that proves it needs changing. It's likely a
> US thing - many across there think all oil should be changed every 1000
> miles. ;-)
>
>> but the job has to be done properly with the ATF at the right
>> temperature. This is commonplace in the US and means the box should last
>> the life of the car rather than being the cause of it being written off.
>> General advice is ensure the fluid is flushed out every 60k or more
>> preferably at each Inspection II.
>
> It is of course impossible to do a fluid change in the ordinary way since
> so much is retained in the torque convertor. Some say to do it with the
> engine running and open a line to the fluid cooler - so the pump forces
> the fluid out while you fill with new. But with the cost of the correct
> ATF you're in for a very large bill.

Depends on the make of the box. If it's a green label box it's pricey -
black labelled boxes use ordinary Dexron. I just open mine and drain the
pan, drop the pan and swap the filter and clean the magnets in the sump
pan (usually very little deposit on them)

Then refill with the appropriate volume of lost fluid. If you catch it
all, then you know exactly how much has to go back. Check the level as
per the handbook.

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